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FAQ's:
CANOECRAFT/KAYAKCRAFT BOOKS
Canoecraft by Ted Moores first published in 1983 by Camden House
printed with minor revisions 12 printings
Canoecraft by Ted Moores revised and expanded 2000 by Firefly Books
Kayakcraft by Ted Moores published by Woodenboat Books 1999
When considering the questions below be sure you know what version (original or revised) of Canoecraft you are using. Questions about drawing the plans are separated into original and revised version.
Q What new information is in the revised edition of Canoecraft? How is it different than the original version?
A The new edition of Canoecraft which became available in January 2000 has fifty more pages than the original edition.
It contains:
- almost all new photos
- updated techniques
- information and sources
- a chapter on staple less construction
- paddle making
- accent strips
- plus five new plans.
Plans included are:
- Rob Roy
- Bob's Special
- Hiawatha Ranger
- Huron Cruiser
- Prospector 16'
- Freedom and
- Redbird
Q I drew the plans for my first canoe from the original Canoecraft. The plans in the revised edition and in Kayakcraft are expressed differently.
A Canoecraft was first published in 1983. The plans contained in it were expressed as a grid system which Ted developed so that people could plot the lines for the patterns without having to learn the process of lofting.
Many people were confused by this system.
When Ted revised Canoecraft in 2000 he decided to use a traditional table of offsets to express the plans. This method requires some knowledge of lofting. Lofting is a universal system used to express boat lines.
The plans in KayakCraft and the new Canoecraft are expressed in the traditional table of offsets. Steve Killing kindly produced these additional instructions for people who want to draw their own plans. Full size plans are available from Bear Mountian Link and we have also included the following instructions to assist you in drawing from our books.
Q Are there any typographical errors in the revised CanoeCraft?
A Yes. Please check out the CanoeCraft Offsets Revisions for more details.
Q I've read and appreciated CANOECRAFT both the '88 addition and the 2000 revised. I'm ready to order plans. However, I need a bit of advice. I do not see what I had hoped for in your plan selection. I intend building a solo canoe 15' to 16' long which I would prefer to paddle flat using a single blade paddle. I'm thinking max 30" beam, shallow arch.
I love the prospector look and have the Bill Mason book, PATH OF THE PADDLE, however, the leaning position doesn't appeal and I'll be doing mostly day trips on lakes and quite rivers. I am 6'4" and weigh 220. I have very little canoeing experience but I'm retired and have plenty of practice time. What do you think? Am I being unreasonable here? If you can give me some direction I'd appreciate it.
A Of the plans we have to offer at this time, the Lorna would be a suggestion for you to consider.
If you want a narrow beam, the Lorna would be a good choice but note that its stability factor is lower...that comes with a narrower canoe. Ted says that you'll likely find it a challenge if you haven't had that much experience.
AND .....Thanks for the prompt reply. The Stability table was helpful. I'll bow to experience on Ted's thought and leave the Lorna boat for the future and compromise on something "beamier". Based on the stability factors I'm thinking between the Hiawatha and the Huron cruiser. If I read the description in CANOECRAFT correctly, the Huron has a round bottom but the carrying capacity seems appropriate. The shallow arch bottom in the Hiawatha seems preferable from a stability stand point. Am I reading that correctly? If you think something else entirely just let me know. I know I have to make the decision but I do respect your judgment.
Q Kayakcraft (page 128) mentions the option of (1)planking the deck first,
(2) then using a router to trim the deck edge back, (3) then fitting and
attaching the covering boards. I have decided to do this and am ready for
step (2). However, I now realize that I will have nothing to clamp the
covering boards to, as the inside edge of the sheer clamp will be
inaccessible. Any tips?
A Staple them into position or try using tape to hold them.
Venture 14 CORRECTION
Q I am building a Venture 14 from plans I purchased from the Bear Mountain
Boat shop. I am about to cut out the molds, but discover that the sheer
clamp cutout on station 10 is dimensioned differently than all of the other
stations. It is only 11/16" deep rather than the typical 7/8". Is this a
mistake on the drawing?
I would appreciate a reply as soon as is possible.
Also, I have noticed that the dimensions are about 1/16" oversized for each
10" of distance in both the horizontal and vertical directions on all of the
plans. I imagine that I can ignore this if I trace the plans, heh, since it
seems consistent.
A Thanks for your note on the Venture 14 plans. The notch in station 10
is indeed shown the wrong size. They should all be 3/4" x 7/8" as
noted on the drawing. I appreciate your bringing that to my
attention. It has now been corrected and when the next printing comes
up will be issued.
The oversize dimensions would be caused by a stretching of the
blueprint paper. That is common when the paper absorbs humidity but
that amount I would not worry about and if you trace the stations the
boat will work out fine.
Other FAQ Sections
Cost, Time, Tools Required, Experience Neccessary
- This FAQ section outlines what you need to know before starting your Bear Mountain project
Building your Bear Mountain Canoe or Kayak
- This FAQ section includes topics such as Lofting, Plotting, Fairing and more.
About the CanoeCraft and KayakCraft books
- this FAQ section answers a number of questions about our Bear Mountain publications.
Choosing a Design
- This FAQ section provides information on specific Bear Mountain designs, as well as a guide to help you choose the design that is right for you.
Product Feedback
- This FAQ section provides feedback from our customers on a variety of Bear Mountain products.
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