Low angle block plane or Spokeshave

[bert304]

ok I am finally getting back to my 15 foot ranger canoe. I built the strong back last August and had to stop because of lack of funds. Just found out I am getting my taxes back on Friday so I am looking at the tools to order and I am stuck on either a low angle block plane or a spokeshave. Here are the two I am looking at

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,41182,41189&p=32685

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,50230&p=49142
So far Vertias is the only company that makes round handle spokeshaves
I am trying to figure out with I would use more in building my canoe.

Other things I need to get are the following: Thin kerf glue line rip blade an ZCI for it, 1 1/4 chisel ( largest I currently have is a 3/4) the cedarboards them selves.

Is a 3/4 chisel large enough or do you need a 1 inch or 1 1/4 chisel

[vann evans]

I think two of the most useful tools that I acquired for my canoe project was a wood rasp and a surfoam plane. I used both of these tools extensively in shaping the stems. I purchased a spokeshave, but really didn't use it so much. I did use a low angle block plane and also a small finger plane for planing the hull at the strip joints to make them fair. I don't think your chisel size is too small-larger is not better. Sometimes, the smaller chisel is easier to control.I would also recommend the thin kerf rip blade-it will save a lot of wood while making the strips. To my knowledge, there are 2 different types of rip blades that work-one is a thin kerf and the other is a glue line. They have different functions-not sure that there is a combination rip blade that is both thin kerf and glue line.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your boat.

Vann Evans

[bert304]

I found it at Rockler here is the link
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21419

How is the Stanley low angle block plane?

[Denis]

I would buy both perhaps the less expensive models and I would chose a low angle block plane. You could buy stanley models plus a sharpening system for the price of one of the veritas pieces.

I'd love a veritas spokeshave and plane but have done ok with the stanley models. I am thinking of getting the same model of veritas plane. another option is to buy a low end product and purchase the lee valley blades to upgrade it.

Denis

[bert304]

I would like a really nice low angle plane to use for other projects. I do not mind putting out 140 bucks for it. The problem I have is I also want a dust collector that is 395 and a band saw which is 450 and the hoses and connectors. With everything I am looking at around 1400 to 1600 dollars including the cedar. I have to prioritise with the purchases so not to spend to much. Paying for a family vacation also.

[Ben]

I have found that my Stanley low angle block plane is indespensible...but I spent a lot of time truing up the sole, and I keep the blade sharp enough to shave with using the Scary Sharp sharpening system with Veritas sharpening guides. I inherited my old Stanley 151 spokeshave from my grandfather, and it has been a godsend as well. I found that a standard angle Millers Falls jack plane (available at most garage sales for under $10) was the ticket for fairing the outside of my hull. The low angle plane was giving me tearout, but the jack plane wasn't, and I had more control when I could use both hands. The shurform stuff has worked OK in some instances, but spend your time and money in the sharpening. A super sharp $20 Stanley plane will outperform a dull $150 veritas or $250 lee valley plane any day of the week. As far as shaping the stems, a spokeshave and a high quality piece of 80 grit sandpaper glued to a batten work great!

Also, don't discount the $4 properly sharpened scraper for scraping out the inside. Profile it to a curve, sharpen it with a file, 220, and 400 grit sand paper, then fold over the point of the blade toward the handle with the back side of a chisel. It works like a cabinet scraper on steroids! Trust me, you will get shavings like they came off a plane!

[podunk]

I bought both a straight spokeshave and a radius spokeshave, didn't use either one much. Did most with a small block plane from Sears. I would spend my money on cabinet scrapers. I rough shaped my stems with a die grinder and a sanding attachment with the psi turned down and finished with a fairing board. worked for me but I am far from a expert. Good Luck.

[Redleg]

I've got both the Veritas low angle block plane and their small apron plane. In my opinion the apron plane is the cat's meow for canoe building.

It's a lot lighter than the regular low angle block plane. The extra heft of the bigger plane is great for trimming end grain in hardwoods like a mitered oak or maple door casing, but most of your planing will be face grain/edge grain in softer woods. The bigger plane can get fatiguing.

The downside is no mouth adjustment, but paying attention to grain direction and planing with the grain solves that. Blade quality, machining & blade adjustment are top notch.

Price is a lot better, $81 vs. $139. Spend the extra money on sharpening supplies.

An older stanley block plane is also a good option but expect to spend some time tuning it up. These often saw a lot of abuse, inspect carefully for cracked bodies, mouth mechanism rusted solid, and pitting on the flat side of the blade.

Here's the one, pic from Lee Valley's site:


Thumbnail, click to enlarge.

As far as spokeshaves go, they can be handy but I don't think you need them. Your block plane will do most of what a spokeshave can do & if it can't you can always buy one later. I'd spend my money on some decent rasps before a spokeshave. Do a google search for microplane.

Steve