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 Pre cut moulds and cradles
Pre cut moulds and cradles are used to control
the shape of the kayak as well as greatly
simplify assembling the components. Although
unheard of in plywood kayak kits, these basic
boatbuilding fixtures are the key to building
quickly and precisely plus having them working
for you is a big boost to the pleasure factor
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 Our unique method of joining plank components
Plank components are jointed using a butt joint
in the shape of a long traditional scarf joint.
Not only attractive, the shape also functions to
pull the components into alignment. All methods
of joining plank components will be visible.
Accepting this, we have made the shape say
'wooden boat' as well as work for us.
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Pre-drilled wire holes
Pre-drilling the wire holes is more than just a
nice feature that will save the builder a little
time. When you can rely on the accuracy of the
holes, they become a useful guide for assembling
the components; if the holes lineup, the parts
will fit, if they don't, you will be alerted to
find out why.
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 Inside stems and optional outside stems
One of the hard to control variables in free-form
building is to keep the ends of each pair of
planks in line to form a smooth, straight stem.
Bear Mountain has introduced the use of light
plywood inside stems for several good reasons.
First, because they are set up on the centerline
when the forms are setup, the planks will come
together fairly on the centerline. Another
advantage of the inside stem is that it increases
the width of the stem for greater durability.
Without a stem, two layers of 4mm plywood pulled
together is quite sharp and prone to damage. The
stems also support the ends of the deck to
facilitate joining the deck components and
joining hull and deck.
Also new to plywood kayak kit building is the use
of a laminated hardwood outside stem.
Functionally, it increases the durability of the
stem, visually, it adds a traditional wooden boat
feature as well as defining the profile of the
kayak. The parts and forms to bend them on are
included, using them is optional.
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Sheer clamps as part of deck
Sheer clamps are used to join the hull to the
deck. The clamp is assembled as part of the deck
and positioned to fit inside the hull. This Bear
Mountain trick makes it simple to hold the hull
and deck together during construction as well as
make the permanent joint because all work is done
conveniently from the outside.
When we consider that the philosophy behind
building kayaks with plywood is to simplify,
installing stems and sheer clamps may look like
added complications. In reality, when this time
is balanced against the frustration of solving
all the problems associated with not using them
and being able to eliminate the
stand-it-in-the-tree end-pour to hold the ends
together, you will have saved time and had a lot
more clean fun.
Notes on Weight -
Plywood kayaks are intended to be as light as
possible so the weight of using stems and sheer
clamps is worth questioning. Any method of
joining hull and deck will require some mass and
reinforcement to stiffen and strengthen the joint
between hull and deck as well as holding the ends
of the hull together. Our consideration is the
difference between the weight of stems and clamps
and what they will be replacing. We would
estimate the additional weight to be no more than
16oz which is reasonable given all they do on a
vessel that will weigh around 40 lbs.
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 Hatches with double gaskets
The Bear Mountain hatches use Ted’s nifty wooden cleats - attractive and functional - engineered to hold the cover on with maximum downward pressure. Heavy duty, flexible double rubber gasket seals tight. The low profile fittings with smooth edges won’t snag gear.
Two Oval Kayak Hatch Kits with each kit
- Okume trim, deck cut out pattern
- Straps and buckles
- Wooden strap anchors with brass pins
- Bronze screws and cup washers
- Double rubber gasket
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 Fiberglass cloth conveniently rolled
The fiberglass package is made up of a
combination of 4oz and 6oz cloth in two widths.
This fabric is compatible with epoxy resin making
it the ideal reinforcement when a clear finish is
important. Our choice of cloth weight is
engineered to balance the lightest weight
possible without sacrificing durability and
safety. While some suppliers will expect the
builder to piece together all the off-cuts to
keep the kit cost down, we understand what a
miserable job it is to work this way and the
amount of sanding needed to clean it up. Keeping
in mind that it is the edges of the fiberglass
that require most of the work, we use the largest
possible piece of fabric that is most convenient
to handle. Our fiberglass cloth is rolled to
avoid creasing and prevent damage during shipping
and handling. To facilitate handling, the cloth
is packaged so that it comes off the roll in the
order it will be used.
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